Grave Topic: Discussing Bangkok’s Protestant & Chinese Cemeteries [S8.E11]

Diving into the differences between East & West, Greg and Ed discuss two famous cemeteries in Bangkok. Ed takes the Teochiew Chinese Cemetery off of Sathorn Road, and Greg talks about the Protestant Cemetery in the Baan Mai neighborhood not too far from Asiatique on Charoen Krung Road. Ed begins by explaining that Thai Buddhists in general practice cremation, and since most Thais are Buddhists, ‘cemeteries’ in general are not really a Thai thing. However, multiple minorities throughout Thai history do bury their dead, so cemeteries exist for Christians, Muslims, and some Chinese communities. 

Ed starts off by discussing his visit to the famous Chinese cemetery roughly in between the Saphan Taksin and St. Louis BTS stations just off of Sathron Road. The cemetery traditionally catered to the Teochiew Chinese minority of which many immigrants to Thailand have been a member of and is more than 100 years old. Further, the cemetery has been made into a legitimate public park, creating an eclectic experience. It features many of the benefits of a park, such as exercise options and open public spaces, but also multiple religious monuments and a significant set of very old tombs, in the midst of a rather dense jungle. It somehow manages to be welcoming and foreboding at the same time. See the pictures below for examples. 

Taking a cue from a blog post he wrote several years ago about his visit, he notes that the Protestant Cemetery is more of a traditional Western Christian cemetery and does not function as a park. Its main appeal is its historic value, housing the remains of countless early expats to Siam in the 19th Century. As proud expats themselves (who even have a podcast on the subject!), the guys muse about what it must have been like to be one of the truly earliest Westerners in pre-modern Siam. 

Both cemeteries offer fascinating glimpses into unique immigrant communities that have played a role in Thai history. 

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